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Showers, floors, backsplashes and regrouting across the GTA - why a shower is a waterproofing assembly with tile on top, and what new tile cannot fix.

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The tile installation jobs people book most. Open one to see what it covers and what it costs.

What tile installation actually costs here, and why

One rule sorts this page from the two beside it, and it is about the material rather than the room. If it is BONDED IN MORTAR, it is tiling: ceramic, porcelain and stone, on a floor, up a wall, in a shower or behind a hob. If it is nailed down, glued down as a plank, clicked together or floating, it is our flooring page - hardwood, engineered, laminate, vinyl and carpet all live there. Past that: retiling a shower, a floor or a backsplash is this page, while moving a drain, changing a layout or buying a finished room is a renovation. And do not confuse the two waterproofing pages, because they run in opposite directions - our waterproofing category is about keeping groundwater out of a basement, whereas the membrane under a shower exists to keep shower water in.

Start with the shower, because it is where the money and the damage both are. A tiled shower is a waterproofing assembly with tile on top. Tile is not waterproof and grout never was - grout is a filler, it is porous, and water passes through it by design. What holds the water is behind the tile: a bonded sheet or liquid membrane, or a pan and a properly formed fall to the drain, over a substrate that belongs in a wet area. Cement backer board or a foam board, not ordinary drywall, and moisture-resistant board is not a waterproofing layer either - it just fails more slowly. You will never see any of this once the tile is on, and you will never see it fail either. The symptom shows up as a soft floor outside the shower or as a stain on the ceiling of the home below, months later, by which point the repair is the whole shower rather than the leak.

The second thing that decides whether a tiled surface lasts is movement. Buildings move - seasonally, thermally, and under load - and tile does not. That is why a proper installation puts movement joints where the field meets a wall, a change of plane or a different material, and at intervals across a large area, more often on anything in sunlight or outdoors. It is why a wood-framed floor is checked for stiffness before tile goes near it: a floor that flexes underfoot will crack grout first and tile second, and no adhesive fixes a springy floor. And on concrete it is why an uncoupling or crack-isolation layer exists, so a crack in the slab does not print straight through into the tile. All of which produces the sentence this category most needs said out loud: new tile over a substrate that is moving, wet or unsupported buys you the same failure again on the same schedule. If a floor bounces, if there is a leak, if the board behind the shower is soft - that is the work, and the tile is the last quarter of it.

The rest of the category is more cheerful and much of it is small. A kitchen backsplash is a half-day to a day and one of the highest-value changes in a GTA condo. A regrout takes the old grout out mechanically and replaces it, which restores how a shower looks and does absolutely nothing for a membrane that has failed underneath - worth being clear-eyed about, because a regrout sold as a leak repair is the most common false economy here. Resealing applies to the grout and to natural stone, which is porous and wants sealing on a schedule rather than once. Screeding is levelling before tile, or forming the fall toward a drain. Terracotta and other unglazed clay is its own method: sealed before grouting, or the grout stains it permanently. Large-format tile is a separate skill again, because the bigger the tile the flatter the substrate has to be and the less forgiving the edges are.

To get offers that hold, measure and say. Square footage or the wall dimensions, the tile size if you have chosen one, and whether you are supplying the tile or want it supplied - most posts here supply their own, in which case order more than the area and keep the overage, because dye lots differ between batches and a repair two years from now needs tile from the same one. Say what is coming off first and who is disposing of it, because tile demolition is heavy and a condo has rules about how it leaves the building. Say if there is heating going under the floor, since it is embedded in the mortar and cannot be corrected afterwards without lifting the tile. Say what is behind the shower now. And leave time at the end: a floor is not walked on and a shower is not used the day it is grouted, and in an unheated space in a GTA winter that wait gets considerably longer.

After you post, here’s exactly what happens

  1. 1Offers arriveEach one carries a price and an approach, from verified Taskers only.
  2. 2Ask before you chooseEquipment, timing, whether they’ve worked in a building like yours.
  3. 3Accept oneYour payment is held by Taskly. Nothing is paid out yet.
  4. 4Confirm when it’s doneThe money releases and your receipt arrives by email.

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Questions

Frequently asked

GTA-specific answers to what people actually search for.

How Taskly works, in full

Can I just regrout instead of retiling?

If the tile is sound and the grout has only stained or cracked cosmetically, yes, and it is a big improvement for a small task. If water is getting through, no - grout is porous by design and was never the waterproof layer, so replacing it does not stop a leak. A regrout sold as a leak repair is the most common false economy in this category.

Can new tile go over the old tile?

Sometimes, and it saves the demolition. It only works if every existing tile is firmly bonded, the surface is flat, nothing is wet behind it, and the extra height is acceptable at the doorway, the toilet flange and the appliances. In a shower it is usually the wrong answer, because the reason to retile a shower is normally what is behind it - and tiling over that leaves the actual problem sealed in.

How much tile should I buy?

More than the measured area, and keep what is left. Cuts, breakages, a pattern and any diagonal all consume material, and dye lots differ between production batches - so a repair in two years needs tile from the same lot as the floor it is going into. Your Tasker can tell you the overage for your specific layout when they see the measurements.

How long before I can use the shower?

Longer than you would like, and it is worth planning around. The mortar has to cure before the grout goes in, the grout has to cure before the surface is wetted, and sealer needs its own time. Most installers give a wait measured in days rather than hours. In an unheated space in a GTA winter it is longer still, because mortar and grout want the room above about five degrees for the whole cure.

Is tile installation the same as flooring?

They are two different categories here and the line is the material. Anything bonded in mortar - ceramic, porcelain, stone - is tile and is this page. Anything nailed, glued as a plank, clicked or floating - hardwood, engineered, laminate, vinyl, carpet - is our flooring page. The substrate preparation is quite different, and so is the person you want doing it.

My bathroom floor feels spongy near the shower. Is that a tile problem?

It is a symptom rather than the problem. A soft spot outside a shower usually means water has been getting past the tile for a while and has reached the subfloor. New tile over it will crack in the same place, so the honest sequence is to open it, find where the water is coming through, replace what is wet, and then tile. Say so in your post - it changes what you are buying and it should be in the offer.

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